On the Hunt for Truffles and Towers in Piedmont
Although known for its industry and big cities, Piedmont has no shortage of culture away from Turin
The rolling hills of Piedmont host vineyards, medieval towers and truffles galore beneath the soil | LS_Studio / Shutterstock
Piedmont, a northern Italian region framed by the Alps on one side and the fertile Po Valley on the other, has emerged as a quiet contender in the world of upscale travel. Though places like Tuscany often steal the limelight, Piedmont’s allure lies in its blend of rustic authenticity and polished refinement, an enticing combination for those seeking experiences that are both luxurious and truly local.
In this article, we’ll explore the less-traveled corners of Piedmont’s wine country—particularly in the Langhe and Roero areas—where medieval towers dominate hilltop villages, family-run wineries are steeped in centuries-old tradition, and the elusive white truffle reigns supreme. It’s a place where you can sip velvety Barolo in an ancient fortress, join a truffle hunter at dawn in a mist-shrouded forest, and retreat to a tucked-away villa at day’s end, all without the tourist crowds found in more famous Italian regions.
Understanding Piedmont’s Hidden Identity
Piedmont’s countryside hosts plenty of hidden cultural practices and places | essevu / Shutterstock
In the global spotlight, Piedmont is often recognized for Turin’s grand boulevards, Fiat’s industrial heritage, and the 2006 Winter Olympics in the alpine city of Turin. Yet, a short drive southeast from the regional capital lies an entirely different world. This is where the Langhe, Roero, and Monferrato areas unfold in gentle waves of vine-covered hills and medieval hamlets. You’ll see old stone farmhouses sitting next to terraced vineyards, and towering above them all are the remnants of feudal strongholds—castles, watchtowers, and fortress ruins that have shaped local identity for centuries.
Although the Langhe and Roero areas collectively span a few thousand square kilometers, the population density is remarkably low in the countryside; many villages house only a few hundred residents. Unlike the tourist-heavy centers of Tuscany or Lombardy, Piedmont’s agricultural backbone endures, and farmers still work the land with dedication that dates back generations. As a result, it’s surprisingly easy to find a private corner of these hills where time feels frozen and daily life retains an unhurried pace.
The region’s recent surge in popularity is partly attributable to UNESCO. In 2014, the Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont, which includes Langhe-Roero and Monferrato, was inscribed as a World Heritage Site. Since then, Piedmont has seen an uptick in international visitors. According to the Italian National Institute of Statistics, tourism in the region has grown by nearly 25% over the past decade, yet this remains one of Italy’s more under-discovered destinations. Large-scale tourism is still limited to a few hotspots, leaving many enchanting villages blissfully overlooked.
Time Your Visit for Truffle Season
Piedmont’s white truffles are famed across Europe | Zuzana Fajmonova / Shutterstock
Piedmont’s famed white truffle, Tuber magnatum Pico, matures primarily between September and December. If you want to experience the truffle obsession at its fullest, plan your visit between early October and late November. This is when the famous Alba White Truffle Fair (Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba) takes place—an event tracing its origins to the 1920s. Held over several weekends, it features truffle auctions, gastronomic workshops, and countless opportunities to sample local delicacies. Alba, the region’s truffle capital, bustles during this time, with chefs, food critics, and fine-dining enthusiasts from around the world converging on the city.
For a more serene experience, you can stay in one of the smaller, lesser-known villages near Alba and drive in for a day trip to the fair. La Morra, Barolo, and Roddi are all within 15 minutes by car. These hilltop towns feel more like timeless enclaves than tourist centers, allowing you to experience the festivities without sacrificing peace and quiet at night. Keep in mind that hotels and agriturismi (rural B&Bs) fill up fast, so advanced planning—three to six months ahead—can be essential for securing the best rooms.
Delving into the World of Truffle Hunting
Specially-trained dogs are used to unearth the truffles, which develop underground | Stefano Guidi / Shutterstock
Truffle hunting, or “la cerca del tartufo,” sits at the heart of Piedmontese folklore. Local trifolao (truffle hunters) still rely on trained dogs whose sensitive noses help detect these aromatic treasures buried among the roots of oak, hazel, and poplar trees. For a truly exclusive outing, arrange a private truffle hunt with a licensed trifolao. While popular services are offered in Alba and its neighboring villages, you can also find smaller operators who live on family properties and only take small, intimate groups on hunts.
One recommended family-run truffle-hunting experience is located just outside Monforte d’Alba, where a local trifolao named Marco organizes early morning forays before sunrise—optimal conditions for the dog’s keen sense of smell. These expeditions often last around two hours, winding through muddy woodland paths and vantage points overlooking vine-laden hills. You’ll learn how soil composition, humidity levels, and even the position of the sun play a role in a successful harvest. If luck is on your side, you might unearth one or two truffles yourself, which Marco typically allows guests to keep or savor as part of a post-hunt tasting session back at his home.
Exploring Medieval Towers and Castles
Serralunga is beautiful year-round | Rostislav Glinsky / Shutterstock
Centuries-old towers are iconic in the Langhe and Roero landscapes, a remnant of medieval feuding between noble families and city-states. In the small village of Serralunga d’Alba, the 14th-century castle rises dramatically on a narrow ridge, its towers visible for miles around. Often overshadowed by the more famous Barolo and La Morra, Serralunga’s fortress offers guided tours of its interior rooms, including a grand knights’ hall and a diminutive chapel adorned with Renaissance frescoes.
Northwest of Serralunga, the village of Neive ranks among Italy’s “Borghi più belli” (most beautiful villages). Its well-preserved old town consists of winding cobblestone alleyways, each one revealing another scenic overlook of vineyard-speckled hills. Neive’s watchtower dates back to the 12th century and once served both defensive and administrative purposes. Today, it provides a panorama of a region that has changed little despite the gradual influx of tourism. Climb to the top, and you’ll see rows of Nebbiolo and Barbera vines stretching out like a patchwork quilt. The vantage point doubles as an excellent backdrop for a glass of local Dolcetto, served at a family-owned enoteca mere steps from the tower’s base.
Where to Stay for a Secluded Retreat
The upsurge in high-end tourism has led to the development of an array of accommodations, from luxury country estates to quiet farm stays. In the heart of the Langhe, a 15th-century monastery turned boutique hotel called Relais San Maurizio sits near the town of Santo Stefano Belbo. Featuring vineyard views from nearly every window, the hotel combines original frescoes and centuries-old stone arches with contemporary spa facilities, including a salt grotto.
For a more down-to-earth vibe that still exudes exclusivity, consider renting a private villa just outside Barbaresco. You’ll find scattered farmhouses that have been meticulously restored, each with a few guest rooms and a small on-site winery. Hosts in these private accommodations typically serve hyper-local breakfasts with cheeses, cured meats, and pastries from the village bakery. The sense of personal connection here often stands out, with owners eager to share their knowledge of Piedmontese cuisine, local festivals, and hidden hiking trails.
Wine Tasting Experiences in Piedmont
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Barolo and Barbaresco are two of the world’s best-known appellations for Nebbiolo grapes. While you could easily drop into a winery for a quick tasting, a more rewarding approach is to book a private visit that delves deep into vineyard practices, cellar techniques, and the nuances of Piedmont’s microclimates. Plan ahead for tasting appointments at revered estates like Gaja, Giacomo Conterno, or Bruno Giacosa, which often require reservations made weeks—or even months—in advance.
In Barolo itself, the locally run Marchesi di Barolo estate stands just below the imposing castle. The family behind this winery traces its lineage back to the 19th century and is credited with helping define the modern Barolo style. A guided tour reveals the family’s private collection of vintage bottles, many of which remain sealed in dusty alcoves that exude old-world mystique. Tastings can include older vintages going back 10 or 15 years, giving you a glimpse of how Nebbiolo evolves over time—initially tannic and austere, then mellowing into a harmonious blend of dried fruit and floral notes.
Barbaresco, located roughly 15 minutes away by car, offers a subtler expression of Nebbiolo, often described as more elegant and fruit-forward in its youth compared to Barolo. Visit the Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative if you’re interested in seeing how multiple local growers pool resources and expertise. The co-op’s tasting room—unassuming from the outside—features a range of Barbaresco crus. Only a few steps away stands the medieval tower of Barbaresco, which, after a recent renovation, houses a panoramic terrace. Entry tickets let you climb the tower and survey the undulating vineyards below, revealing an uninterrupted vista of the Tanaro River Valley.
Savoring Piedmontese Dining
No trip to this region would be complete without a deep dive into Piedmontese gastronomy. Perhaps the quintessential dish here is the tajarin al tartufo, a thin, ribbon-like egg pasta served with shaved white truffles. You’ll find this staple on menus across the region, but for a special meal, head to La Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso, a Michelin-starred restaurant with a cellar that houses tens of thousands of bottles. The restaurant’s terrace overlooks a tapestry of vineyards, and the chef often sources truffles from local hunters he’s known for decades.
For a more casual yet still refined experience, try Osteria Veglio in Annunziata, a hamlet just outside La Morra. Their menu changes seasonally, but you can usually count on classics such as carne cruda all’albese (a raw veal dish similar to tartare) or vitello tonnato (chilled veal with a tuna-caper sauce). Truffle season sees these plates topped with generous shavings of fragrant white gold. And if you’d like to explore the region’s pairing of savory and sweet, don’t miss the classic dessert: a bunet, made with chocolate, eggs, sugar, and amaretti cookies, often complemented by a digestif like Barolo Chinato.
Discovering Lesser-Known Hamlets
Bossolasco is known as the ‘village of roses’ | Bossolasco / Shutterstock
While Alba, Barolo, and Barbaresco headline the Langhe, there are many other villages that remain largely under the radar. The commune of Castiglione Falletto, perched on a ridge between Serralunga and Barolo, features a well-preserved medieval castle—still owned by a noble family—that quietly opens for guided tours on select weekends. The property’s vantage point offers a 360-degree panorama of the region’s vineyards and neighboring towers. Nearby, you can join short hiking trails that trace the ridgelines, linking one fortified village to the next without encountering the traffic of busy main roads.
Further south, the village of Bossolasco, known as the “Village of Roses,” sits on a high plateau roughly 20 kilometers from Alba. Its position provides cooler temperatures in the summer, and rose bushes line the streets, adding bursts of color against stone facades. Few tourists venture here, even though a handful of small B&Bs with panoramic terraces provide an idyllic setting for watching the sun set over the hills. It’s also a hub for local artisan shops selling hazelnuts—Piedmont is the largest hazelnut-producing region in Italy—and you can even arrange to visit a small-scale farm to watch how these nuts are harvested and roasted.
Practical Tips for Getting Around
Piedmont can be difficult to visit without a car, but it is possible to join tours or hop in a bike! | Anatoli Nicolae / Unsplash
One of the biggest challenges in Piedmont’s countryside is navigation. Public transportation is sparse, with bus routes designed more for local workers than for leisure travelers. Most visitors opt for renting a car at Turin or Milan’s airports. If you’d rather not drive, consider hiring a private driver who can shuttle you between villages and wineries. Roads in the Langhe can be winding and narrow, and you might feel more relaxed letting someone else handle the twists and turns. This approach also lets you indulge in wine tastings without worrying about being behind the wheel.
While many locals speak some English—especially in hotels and wineries—a basic grasp of Italian can go a long way. Even a polite “Buongiorno” upon entering a shop or enoteca wins immediate goodwill. When you show genuine interest in local traditions, people tend to open up, sharing stories about harvest cycles, family recipes, and the folklore behind each bell tower you pass.
Embracing a Slower Pace
It pays to take it easy in Piedmont’s sleepy towns and villages | Rostislav Glinsky / Shutterstock
One of the greatest rewards of traveling in Piedmont’s hidden villages is the unspoken invitation to slow down. After a morning spent on a truffle hunt, you might wander medieval lanes, stumble upon a tucked-away chapel, or chat with the owner of a tiny cheese shop who insists you sample his latest batch of robiola. It’s a style of tourism that encourages you to linger over a second espresso at a bar, or to stay an extra hour at a winery just to watch the shifting light change the color of the vineyards. In an era where much of travel is orchestrated by digital schedules, Piedmont’s rural corners invite spontaneity and reflection.
In this region, each castle tells a fragment of a larger story—one forged by centuries of feudal conflicts, shaped by labor in the fields, and celebrated through carefully maintained culinary traditions. Sharing a table with winemakers, truffle hunters, and local artisans reveals the warmth and pride they have in preserving this heritage. It’s a side of Italy that manages to blend understated luxury with genuine cultural immersion, rewarding those who go beyond the standard tourist trail.
Concluding Your Piedmont Journey
Johnny Africa / Unsplash
From its secretive forests brimming with truffles to its ancient towers looming over romantic landscapes, Piedmont offers a rare opportunity to experience Italy at its most authentic and unhurried. Venture here in the heart of truffle season for an immersive gastronomic adventure, or arrive during the quieter spring months to witness vineyards coming to life under gentle sunshine. Whether you anchor yourself in a converted monastery spa or a centuries-old farmhouse, you’ll find indulgences shaped by local character rather than global trends.
These secluded villages maintain a delicate balance: they’re gracious enough to host international visitors but steadfast in preserving the rituals and traditions that make Piedmont so distinct. Some say the air here is perfumed by fermenting grapes and woodland earth, and the notion isn’t far-fetched—this land feels alive with the changing seasons. If you’re drawn to historic towers, artisanal wines, and the thrill of unearthing a truffle at dawn, Piedmont’s quiet roads and rolling hillsides are beckoning. Give yourself time to roam and taste, to discover and reflect. For in this unassuming corner of Italy, you’ll find that the true riches lie not just in rare truffles or storied wines, but in the tapestry of people and places that make each visit feel like a welcomed homecoming.