Fez Travel Guide
A snapshot guide to Morocco’s cultural heart
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Fez is a maze of history, scents, sounds, and tradition, Morocco’s cultural and spiritual capital has been around since the 9th century and has barely changed in the last millennium. Forget Marrakech’s tourist-heavy squares or Casablanca’s modern sprawl—Fez is the real deal.
This is where you’ll find the largest medina in the world, streets so narrow you’ll have to walk sideways, tanneries that haven’t changed since medieval times, and some of the best food you’ll ever eat from stalls that have existed for generations. It’s chaotic, overwhelming, and utterly intoxicating.
But Fez isn’t for the faint-hearted. This is Morocco at its rawest, where you’ll get lost at least three times a day, where the donkeys rule the roads, and where finding a cold drink is an achievement. But if you’re willing to embrace the madness, Fez will reward you with some of the most authentic experiences North Africa has to offer. Every step feels like walking through a living museum, with ancient walls, intricate mosaic work, and the echoes of a history that has shaped Morocco’s soul.
What to Expect
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Expect sensory overload. The Medina (Fez el-Bali) is a labyrinth of nearly 10,000 alleyways, packed with souks selling everything from handwoven carpets to fresh olives. It’s noisy, with vendors calling out, motorbikes squeezing past, and the occasional “Balek!” (Watch out!) as a donkey cart barrels through. The smells are equally intense—spices, leather, grilled meats, and, yes, the pungent waft of Fez’s famous tanneries. It’s a place where tradition and commerce collide, where artisans hammer away in ancient workshops, and where traders still use the same bargaining tactics that have existed for centuries.
While the medina is the star attraction, Fez also has a more relaxed, modern side. The Ville Nouvelle (New Town) is where you’ll find European-style boulevards, upscale hotels, and the city’s few bars. But wherever you go, don’t expect polished, tourist-friendly Morocco. Fez is a working city, and its charm lies in its authenticity. The locals here take pride in their traditions, and while you’ll find warm hospitality, you’ll also encounter a refreshing lack of artifice. This is Morocco for those who crave the real thing.
Location & Getting There
Fez is in northern Morocco, about 530 km (330 miles) from Marrakech and 200 km (124 miles) from Rabat. The city’s international airport, Fès-Saïs (FEZ), has direct flights from major European hubs like Paris, Madrid, and London, as well as domestic flights from Casablanca. The airport is relatively small but efficient, with taxis and shuttle services available to take you into the heart of the city. Be sure to negotiate the taxi fare before you get in—haggling starts the moment you land.
If you’re coming from another Moroccan city, the best way to reach Fez is by train. The ONCF rail network connects Fez to Casablanca (4.5 hours), Rabat (3 hours), and Marrakech (7.5 hours). Trains are comfortable, air-conditioned, and relatively cheap, though delays are not uncommon. Buses are an option too, with CTM and Supratours offering reliable service, though the journey can be long and tiring. For a real adventure, you can even drive—but navigating Fez’s streets is a challenge best left to locals. The roads in and out of Fez are well-maintained, but the traffic rules can feel more like suggestions than actual laws.
Getting Around
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Within the medina, forget cars. The only way to get around is on foot, and you will get lost. Google Maps helps, but even the best navigators end up circling the same streets. The key is to embrace it—getting lost in Fez is part of the charm. Every wrong turn is an opportunity to stumble upon a hidden mosque, a tiny spice shop, or a rooftop café with incredible views. Accept that you’re on Medina time, where schedules dissolve and wandering is the whole point.
For longer distances, petits taxis (small red taxis) are the way to go. They’re metered, but drivers often “forget” to turn them on—agree on a price before you start. If you need to leave the city, grand taxis (shared larger cabs) can take you to places like Meknes or Chefchaouen. Renting a car for day trips is an option, but parking in Fez can be a nightmare, and local drivers operate by a rulebook all their own.
The Best Things to Do
Explore the Medina
There’s no way around it—Fez’s medina, the Fez el Bali, is the main event. It’s the world’s largest car-free urban area and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Wander through its alleys, visit the Souk el Attarine for spices, and stop by the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. Just don’t expect to see it all in a day.
Read next: Everything to look out for in the Medina of Fez
Visit the Tanneries
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The Chouara Tannery is the most famous (and most pungent) in Fez. Leather has been tanned here the same way for centuries—using pigeon droppings, cow urine, and lime, among other things. Viewing terraces from leather shops offer the best vantage points (bring a scarf for the smell).
Escape to Jnan Sbil Gardens
After the madness of the medina, these tranquil gardens offer a much-needed break. Located between the old and new city, they’re perfect for a quiet stroll.
See the Al-Qarawiyyin University
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Founded in 859 AD, this is the oldest continuously operating university in the world. While non-Muslims can’t enter the mosque, the university’s library has been restored and offers limited visits. Even if you can’t go inside, the exterior alone is worth seeing.
Take a Day Trip to Meknes & Volubilis
An hour from Fez, Meknes is an underrated gem with grand gates and historic palaces. Nearby, Volubilis has some of the best-preserved Roman ruins in North Africa. A must for history buffs.
Where to Stay
Riads are the best option in Fez. These traditional Moroccan houses with central courtyards offer an immersive experience, with intricately tiled floors, carved wooden doors, and lush gardens. Riad Laaroussa is a top pick, known for its stunning decor, panoramic rooftop views, and exceptional service.
For a boutique experience, Dar Seffarine, located in a beautifully restored 600-year-old building, provides an intimate, historic ambiance with exceptional hospitality. If you’re on a budget, check out Riad Verus, a sociable spot with great rooftop views and a relaxed, youthful vibe.
If you want luxury, Palais Amani offers a more upscale stay, with a serene courtyard, a traditional hammam, and a gourmet restaurant.
Where and What to Eat
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Fez is Morocco’s food capital, and you’ll find incredible dishes everywhere. Try b’ssara (fava bean soup) for breakfast, typically served with a drizzle of olive oil and fresh bread. For lunch, rfissa (shredded chicken with lentils and fenugreek) is a deeply flavorful, slow-cooked dish that’s beloved by locals. At dinner, pastilla (a flaky pastry stuffed with pigeon, almonds, and cinnamon) offers a fascinating sweet-savory contrast.
For a true local experience, head to Thami’s, a tiny stall near Bab Bou Jeloud serving legendary tagines with rich, aromatic spices. The Ruined Garden offers a more refined setting with outstanding Moroccan cuisine, including slow-cooked lamb and saffron-infused couscous. If you're craving something different, Café Clock is a great spot for a camel burger—surprisingly tender and bursting with flavor. For an authentic, old-school dining experience, try Dar Hatim, a family-run restaurant hidden in the medina, where guests are treated to home-cooked meals in an intimate setting.
Guided Tours & Experiences
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A guided tour of the medina is worth it—local guides can show you hidden spots you’d never find on your own, from tiny artisan workshops tucked away in the alleyways to ancient caravanserais that once hosted traders from across Africa and the Middle East.
We recommend connecting with Siham at Morocco Travel Organiser for an unforgettable experience. Specialising in one-on-one, small group and solo female travel, Siham blends exceptional local expertise with a wonderful welcoming manner, meaning you’ll feel at ease throughout your trip to Fez.
Cooking classes are also a big hit, with places like Café Clock offering lessons on making pastilla and couscous, as well as insights into the use of local spices and traditional cooking methods. If you’re into photography, join a medina photography walk to capture Fez’s magic from a local’s perspective, with guides who can help you find the best angles and light to document the city's intricate architecture and daily life.
For a more immersive experience, consider taking a calligraphy workshop, where you can learn the ancient art of Arabic script from a master calligrapher.
Hidden Gems
Fes Water Clock | Hindrik Johannes de Groot / Shutterstock
Beyond the well-trodden paths of the medina, Fez is full of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered. The Merenid Tombs, perched on a hill overlooking the city, offer a spectacular panoramic view, especially at sunset. This spot is often missed by tourists, but it's one of the best places to appreciate Fez’s vast, sprawling medina from above.
Another lesser-known gem is Dar al-Magana, an ancient water clock built in the 14th century. Though the mechanism no longer functions, the structure itself is a fascinating piece of medieval engineering, with intricate stonework and historical significance.
For a taste of Fez’s artisan culture away from the bustling souks, head to Seffarine Square. This is where traditional metalworkers craft beautiful brass and copperware, their hammers echoing through the air as they create intricate designs. It’s a great place to watch artisans at work and even buy some truly authentic souvenirs.
If you’re looking for a quiet retreat, the lesser-known Bou Inania Medersa is an architectural masterpiece with stunning zellige tilework and peaceful courtyards. Unlike some of the more famous madrasas, it remains relatively uncrowded, allowing visitors to soak in its beauty without distractions.
Best Time to Visit
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The best time to visit Fez is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when the weather is pleasantly warm and ideal for exploring the medina’s labyrinthine alleys without being overwhelmed by the summer heat. During these seasons, temperatures range from 20–30°C (68–86°F), making it comfortable for sightseeing and outdoor excursions. Spring is particularly beautiful, as the nearby Middle Atlas mountains burst into bloom, adding an extra charm to day trips.
Summer (June to August) can be brutally hot, with temperatures soaring above 40°C (104°F), making it difficult to explore during the daytime. However, this is also the quietest tourist season, which means fewer crowds and better deals on accommodation.
Winter (December to February) is cooler, with temperatures dropping to around 5°C (41°F) at night, though the days remain mild. While the lack of central heating in traditional riads can make evenings chilly, this is a great time to experience Fez with fewer tourists and a more relaxed atmosphere. Rain is rare but possible, so packing a light jacket is a good idea.
If you’re visiting during Ramadan, keep in mind that many restaurants and shops will close during the day, but the evenings come alive with food stalls and festivities. It’s a unique time to experience Fez, but it requires some planning to navigate meal times and opening hours.
Wrapping Up
Fez is Morocco at its most intense, most chaotic, and most rewarding. It’s not an easy city, but that’s precisely why it’s so unforgettable. Whether you’re eating your way through the souks, watching the sunset from ancient tombs, or getting hopelessly lost in the medina, Fez will stick with you long after you leave. If you’re looking for the soul of Morocco, you’ll find it here.
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